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In a large bowl, mix 4 cups (1000 mL) of flour with the baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar and caraway seeds.
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Add raisins and mix them in with fingers to make sure they are separated. Add buttermilk and mix with a fork until mixture forms a dough.
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Sprinkle about 1/4 cup (50 mL) more flour on a board or counter, turn out dough and knead for about 5 minutes, working in the flour from the board and forming dough into a smooth, round loaf. (If humidity is high and dough is very sticky, you may need to add 1/4 cup of flour to the board.)
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Grease a 9" (1.5 L) cake pan. Press loaf evenly into pan and cut a 1/2" (1 cm) deep cross in the top. Bake 1 1/4 hours at 350°F (180°C) or until bread sounds hollow when tapped on bottom.
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Remove loaf to a wire rack and rub top with butter. Sprinkle with sugar. Let bread cool completely before slicing. The next day it tastes even better. Makes 1 large loaf.
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*To substitute for 2 cups (500 mL) buttermilk, use 2 tbsp. (25 mL) lemon juice plus enough milk to make 2 cups (500 mL).
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YIELD:
1 loaf.
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